Tuesday, July 12, 2011

The Hurried-er I Go........

.....the behinder I Get!!!

In real world time it's Monday, 11 July and we've been on the Coast for 8 days.
In the blogosphere we're still working on getting you caught up on our final days in Quito.
"Manana" fever is highly contagious......that's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
The good news is, while we've been quite busy since our arrival here at the beach, we've also managed to slow the pace somewhat (Mrs. V has transgressed from Type A+ personality to an A-....you'll not recognize her the first few days back<g>).
"Good News" because it will make catching up much easier....one can only write "we walked the beach" so many times before it becomes burdensome to read. While the reading is boring, the walking is a luxury we never seem to have time for in the hustle and bustle of our "normal" lives and as such a sheer delight.
So back to our last day in Quito.
Once again, our two "new best friends" (Miguel and Patricio) outdid themselves. As a sidenote, if we haven't stated it specifically before let me do so here and now. From our experience, if you are Quito bound and looking for a place to stay and a driver to handle your transportation needs you will find none better than Miguel and Patricio. Miguel and his wife Paola own and operate the AndinoHotel with the assistance of a most competent staff. The term "hotel" gets somewhat lost in the translation for NorteAmericanos - think more along the lines of a cross between a B&B and a country Inn, in the city. Within minutes of your arrival you are treated like family and while the accommodations would challenge the hoity toity the rooms are meticulously clean, comfortable, and contain the necessities (including WiFi and HOT showers - not necessarily a "given" when selecting a place to stay in EC). You can click the link above to contact them via their website for additional information and Miguel will get back to you via email in relatively short order. The rates are most reasonable, the food (breakfasts) incredible (and included in the per diem as is the WiFi), and you would be hard pressed to find a hotelier anywhere more concerned with meeting your every need and desire than Miguel. At the end of your stay, departure will be akin to leaving home.
Patricio is, as best we can determine, what we would classify as an "independent" contractor as opposed to an employee. It is evident though that Miguel respects and trusts Patricio to provide the same level of service to his guests as he would and his confidence is well placed. While we can't say for certain, it appears to us that this may be a relatively new venture for Patricio and one which he is bound and determined to see succeed. His vehicle is new and well maintained, insurance and business requirements appear in order, and he actually has a business card with contact info (not a "given" for many in the business). His rates are more than reasonable and his desire to please second to none. He's working on his English and getting better day by day. Mrs. V, in true "teacher mode" helped expand his vocabulary with the addition of the phrase "okey dokey" - guess I'm missing something when it comes to current ESL curriculum protocols but hey, she's the Professional<g>. The easiest way to arrange for his services is to ask Miguel to handle it for you. We did and all went as smooth as glass from our initial pickup at the airport upon arrival to the various "day trips" arranged on the spot and tailored to our specific desires, to a return to the airport and negotiations with the rental car agency (for which he handled the details in Spanish and protected the SSL challenged "gringos". We have his direct contact info as well which we can provide if you contact us via private email as I'm reticent to post it publicly without his specific authorization.

Back to the task at hand - our last day in Quito and the "Highlands".
Upon our return from yesterday's adventure we arranged with Patricio to employ his services for the full day with destinations "to be determined". Once again, on the spur of the moment he and Miguel laid out an itinerary that included each of the venues we "though" we wanted to see, and a few stops in between that they thought we should. He showed up on time (another issue which is far from a "given"), we were "almost" ready, and off we went headed north.
Otavalo and Cotacachi were on our "must see" list - Otalvo for the famous Indigenous Outdoor Market and Cotacachi which is noted for leather goods and as an area with a near perfect year around climate which induces many expats to lay down roots there. The Otavalo Market is best visited on Saturdays for the full effect as it nearly doubles in size that day and includes the livestock sales from 6-9am. Unfortunately, our plans wouldn't allow a Saturday visit but our hosts assured us the trip was well worth the visit anyway and they were right.
Departing the hotel and heading north was the now familiar exercise in vehicular voluntary euthanasia. As the city lies in a valley between mountains running north and south travel in either of these directions can be a rather long, drawn out affair. Eventually though, we pass the airport and things begin to become more "countrified", population density wise, but certainly not driver courtesy wise.
One of the most interesting characteristics of Ecuador in general is the amount of eco-diversity and how quickly local ecosystems change (in terms of travel time). Literally within a few miles things go from lush green, to almost desert like. In addition, while the "seasons" are essentially reversed (from our perspective) it's "winter" here. Finally, the terms "winter" and "summer" have much different connotations then those in the US - think "wet" and "dry" as opposed to "hot" and "frigid". A couple of pictures of the first leg of the days' journey will illustrate.
An hour or so out of Quito

 Closing in on Otavalo

Shortly before arriving in Otavalo, Patricio stops at what appears to be the Ecuadorian version of a very typical US "tourist trap". Turns out, the views were to die for, none of the souvenirs were made in China, and Mrs. V made, yet ANOTHER new best friend.



 "How would you like to come home with me?"

Back into the Hyundai for the final leg to the village

 Laguna de San Pablo

...and FINALLY - a Shopper's Nirvana!!!

Hand Made/Woven articles of every description and color,

 hats, hats, and more hats,

and Silver Jewelry (some of which will be coming home)

3000 miles for Pizza?
(Turns out, it was well worth the trip)

While some of us could have spent days scouring the market for the ultimate "deal" and to be sure not to miss anything, time constraints (still can't get past that "schedule" thing) dictated otherwise and off we go again. This time headed to Cotacachi.

Another Laguna - this time de Cuicocha



A little better shot of the snowcap under the clouds


In Ecuador, if there's an attraction - there's a market and the Parque is no exception

Just up the road the Vistors Center features a modern structure set in an idyllic location

Vistas are, in Patricio's words - "tranquilo"

Patricio explains the legend of Maria Isabel Nieves Cotacachi ("Mama Cotacachi") to Mrs. V. It dates back centuries in Kichwa lore. Her transgressions led to solitude and tears that produced the Laguna. You can read a brief description of the legend here.

Never one to be upstaged by mere "legend", Mrs. V decides to create one of her own to leave behind on the sacred ground. An apparition? You decide.

 
These young ladies (apparently sisters) secured the "market rights" to the center. As the day comes to a close they are packing up to call it a day. One sister appears less than eager to assist until another admonishes her with a threat to "tell Mama" at which point she dives back in to her work. 

Always one to help out kids in any way she can, and feeling "tall" by comparison, Mrs. V lends a hand to hoist the "goods" up and over the wall to the storage area.
Then, finally, it's off to Cotacachi and "Leather Street"
 Leather belts, purses, and wallets - Oh My!!!
Never one to pass up a deal Mrs. V scores a deal.

 On to view the Cathedral (every town, regardless of size, has at least one)
Today, this one is attracting a particularly large crowd

Might be more than just an everyday Mass?

Where there's a crowd (and even where there's not) the street vendors are aplenty


Onlookers line the sidewalks and an informal "procession" through the streets spontaneously takes shape
Garb ranges from traditional to designer jeans
 Everyone Loves a Parade


The revelers proceed through the city streets stopped at each intersection for a "circle dance"

with predictable results regarding traffic flow - and, of course, the ceremonial "exercising of the horns"

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