New, Best Friends - Forever

After something of a diversion (see previous post) it's time again to focus on that which we had intended to yesterday - our "Dedicated To" page of the blog.
Traditionally the "Dedication" page comes first, even before the index, but "traditional" isn't one of the top six items likely to be suggested by friends for inclusion on my tombstone so I guess we'll just have to go with it being included here.
As mentioned in the last post we have been thinking about how to formulate this post. How to be sure we didn't omit any of the many people who were such a special part of our trip. Should it be just a "list" of those who can provide services and assistance to others visiting EC? Should it include things like restaurants, "touristy" stuff, etc, etc, etc?
As luck would have it, the decision to postpone publication of this post, and the receipt of two emails from very "special" friends in the interim, helped us agree on a course of action. Totally by coincidence we received those emails, almost literally, within minutes of each other. Each was from someone we met by "happenstance" during our trip and while they will occupy a special place in our memories, and, hopefully remain "friends" even if "long distance" for years to come, their stories are better told as part of upcoming "diary" type posts. Our focus here will be on contacts we made with people we feel comfortable recommending to others who might wish to avail themselves of their services, should they have the need to do so. For the most part that is. More than a few of those included sort of "cross the line" between personal friends and "service providers". That's one of the best memories we carried back home with us on our return from EC - the fact that what starts out as a business relationship can very quickly turn into one of a personal nature with a mutual degree of trust and respect not common in the dog eat dog world we function in at home. One does certainly need to exercise a reasonable degree of caution in any business transaction as "sharks" exist everywhere but, unless we were just extraordinarily lucky in those we came in contact with, the "shark" population is a much smaller segment than that which we take for granted at home.
So, without further ado, let's get to the "list". We'll list people pretty much in the order we met them so as to eliminate any concerns of implied "favoritism" or the need to have to alphabetize (yet, another, of my "not so strong - suits").

You've heard before about the very first person we met upon our arrival in Ecuador - Patricio. He was indeed the most welcome sight imaginable, holding up the sign with our name at the airport after a verrrrry long day of traveling and arriving in a country much less willing to cater to our inability to communicate than we expected. If you are planning your first trip to EC and, like us, your command of the Spanish language is pretty much limited to "adios" and "Margarita" and you spend more than 2 seconds debating the wisdom of spending the couple extra bucks to have Patricio (or another driver) meet you at the airport and take you to your hotel please stop reading right now as nothing else we will have to suggest is likely to fall on ears connected to a brain capable of reason. Yes, if you know the city, arrive during daylight hours, haven't spent the last 8, 10, or 12 hours banging around airports and schlepping bags, you could save yourself a couple of bucks by grabbing a taxi or even a couple more on a bus but is that REALLY how you want to start your trip? If we were talking about a 100 bucks it might be a consideration...for 10 or 12 (for the vehicle, NOT per person) you really have to be nuts to do it any other way. But we digress (big surprise) back to Patricio.
After being "on time" to pick us up (not always a "given" in a society with a deeply entrenched "manana" culture), delivering us directly and without incident to our hotel, and being able to converse in a combination of our "Spanglish" and his much more adept English, Patricio very quickly became our "hero". In the next couple of days, during which we employed his services first for a 6 hour day trip, then for a "long" day trip of 12-14 hours to Otovalo and surrounds, another trip to the airport to pick up our son, and yet another airport run to pick up our rental car - he became much more than a "driver". He became a true "friend" and one we couldn't recommend more highly. His vehicle is nearly new, immaculately maintained and driven by a true "pro" who knows not only the city but its surrounds intimately. While we didn't utilize the services of any other "tour" or "car" services while in Quito (didn't feel the need since we were 100% satisfied), from reports of others who did that we had researched, his prices are well within reason. Finally, the fact that he came to us via our next "New Best Friends" recommendation (in fact, actually arranged) would prove to be the very best endorsement one could hope to achieve and one which could not have served us better. While Patricio is not, technically, an employee (as far as I know), the best way to arrange for his services is through Miguel at the Andino Hotel, our next NBFF.

Next on our list of  "NBFF's" is Don Miguel, his wife Paola, and the entire "crew" of the Hotel Andino. We've spoken before of our simply wonderful experience(s) on each occasion that we were their guests. Virtually from the first minute we arrived (actually even before we arrived if you consider the arrangements made in advance with Patricio) we felt like "family". Yes, it sounds trite, especially after you read the reviews of others who have stayed here and "family" is the word most often repeated, but in this case it's true - there is no other word that adequately describes the degree of care, attention to detail, and honest desire to meet any and all needs of their guests that the Andino staff demonstrates day in and day out. You will be able to find more "lavish" rooms and more opulent venues around town if such is your wont but you'll not find anyplace with a staff more dedicated to "you" and assuring that you, too, leave the Andino with the same feeling we had - that of adding yet another to our list of those we would truly be proud to call "friends".
Click here for the website
and here for the TripAdvisor Review

In an effort to remain "true" to the chronological pecking order we should mention here that after spending our first four days in and around Quitio we set off for "the beach". We had made arrangements previously (online) to pick up a rental car at the airport. Once again, Patricio to the rescue. We loaded our bags and crammed the five of us into his Hyundai and headed out for what we thought would be a simple matter of grab the keys, sign the papers, set up the GPS, and hit the road. Didn't quite go as smoothly as we had hoped, but with Patricio's help translating, and later Roberto's intervention, we were finally off. Our original intention was to keep the car for a week, returning it when we brought our son Dean back to Quito for his return flight home. Like the old saw goes - "the best laid plans.....". We ended up keeping it for the balance of our time in EC and will continue our discussion of Roberto's nomination to the NBFF role at the point where we returned the car.

Arriving at the beach after a 9+ hour drive, after dark, in a tiny village with dirt streets, no street signs, and very limited lighting was challenging enough for some already frayed nerves created by the driving tactics encountered during the journey (think "Nuts"!). That there was no outside light at the house, and more significantly, that the hidden key didn't fit the lock, and that the local property manager had informed us earlier that he would be out of town, didn't exactly produce the warm and fuzzy - "Welcome Home" moment we had anticipated. Long story short, our Son pressed his rock climbing skiils into service scaling a couple walls, traversing a neighbor's roof, and shortly thereafter emerging from behind the (now opened), front door. So much for the "security walls, iron gates, and window bars"<s>. While not exactly humorous at the time, we can look back upon the scene now and laugh, but more importantly, consider Carlos (the manager) and his lovely wife Jeanette high up on our NBFF list. Sometimes, despite people's best intentions, shxxxt just "happens". We'll include a more "formal" introduction to them in a later post.

After settling in to the beach house it was time for another "road trip". We had seen mention made on one of the blogs of an Expat, 4th of July celebration party to be held at Score Sports Bar in Salinas so we pointed the rentacar "down" the coast (south) for the 1 1/2 hour drive arriving a couple hours early to allow time to explore the city and its Malecon. At the appointed hour we located Score and walked into what could have been "any bar" in "any town, USA" with numerous couples, some families, a few single/gringles - all speaking a language we could understand! Within minutes we were welcomed by some of the expats we "knew" from reading their blogs as well as others we didn't. While most of those in attendance were either full time EC expat residents or longer term "visitors" there were also a few who, like us, were first timers "exploring" the possibilities of a future in EC. The conversations were lively, informative, and generally just "good fun". During the course of the evening raffle tickets were sold with proceeds going to fund an operation required for the daughter of one of the staff - a local Mother who would not otherwise be able to afford the procedure. Typical of our "luck" (not able to win a free lunch at the Salvation Army) one of our tickets WON! The prize, a couple hour use of a jetski, had been donated by a local merchant as had they all. We, of course, would be unable to use the "prize" since Dean would be returning to the US. Actually it turned out fine when we had Rick run a mini-auction and sell the prize again - raising an additional $30 for the fund. Another of the donated "prizes" was diner at a local, Salinas Italian restaurant purported to be the best around for miles. While we didn't win that one (naturally) we did have an opportunity to meet the proprietor - Gabriella who was in attendance and a most delightful lady. Note to self...we'll be back to Salinas for dinner there - and so should you. (see our more detailed write up in a future post). Two other attendees of note that evening, neither of which actually made the NBFF list but should be mentioned included, first: the Mayor of Salinas (complete with his entourage) who arrived and spent a considerable amout of time "welcoming" the expat community to his city (either in Espanol or through his interpreter) and doing the things that all politicians do in similar circumstances - pumping the flesh and baby kissing are, apparently, universal acts taught worldwide in "politician" school. Later that evening, during the fireworks display on the beach another group of local officials dropped by. Due to our still almost non-existent comprehension skills of the Spanish language, we weren't quite sure of the exact nature of their "welcome" or their exact titles but they were all very smartly attired and must have been members of the same family as each had "Policia" emblazoned on their backs.
 
Back at the beach house we were (finally) able to hook up with our "neighbors" down the beach in Olon - Leigh and Todd Frost. We "met" Leigh online through her blog Olon Again.... Naturally which we had been following for the months leading up to our departure and from which we gleaned considerable insight as to what to expect. As a side note, we highly recommend spending the time necessary to read as many of the expat blogs as you can prior to your first trip to Ecuador as there is a wealth of information available on more topics than one can imagine. Some are better than others and Leigh's is one of the best but all have something of value and will greatly assist in your quest to learn of the "real" Ecuador - unlike some of the more popular, and commercialized websites interested primarily in getting you to sign up for one of their services or sell you real estate. Another very good site to include in your "arsenal" is South of Zero which, on a daily basis, compiles a list of those blogs which have been updated that day, thereby sparing you the effort of having to check through your entire list and also introducing you to blogs you might not have been aware of. Add it to your "favorites".
Leigh and Todd have lived in Olon for a few years, become an integral part of the community, are closing in on having a pretty solid command of Espanol, and are generally just all-around "good folk". After spending time with them on a couple of occasions we are proud to call them NBFF's and only wish we would have been able to spend more time together (although there is little doubt we will in the future). Part of the reason we couldn't is that they are not yet ready to actually "retire" and, unlike many expats, actually do have "jobs" which occupy some of their time. They are perhaps the perfect example of that class of NBFF's we spoke of earlier with one toe on each side of "friend and service provider" line. While we didn't avail ourselves of their services (only because we had made our arrangements prior to learning of their business) they are a valuable resource you should keep in mind if looking for beach rental properties in the Olon area. Contact Leigh through her blog or have a look at some of the properties they represent here on the EcuaFriendly website (be sure to check out both the  "Other Rentals" and "Guest Comments" tabs). Posts yet to be penned will include photos and as much detail as we can remember through the wine induced haze of a couple of our "dates."

After spending almost every day traveling up and down the coast visiting as many of the towns and villages as we could in an attempt to get a "handle" on the various areas and amazingly diverse "micro-climates" we reached the limits of travel north that could be completed in a "day trip" and decided to plan a two night overnight stay in Bahia both to see the renowned "EcoCity" and to explore the surrounding areas. Before we left though one of our Curia "neighbors" - a local lady by the name of Helena introduced us to her cousin Ivan and his delightful daughter Riesha who were visiting from the Cordoba Region of Argentina. Ivan is a most interesting individual, devoted father, and has a deep devotion to all things spiritual, ecological, and artistic. Back at home, he operates Ecoposada y Refugio de montana an ecofriendly spiritual center. While not an Ecuador resource, and the website is not in English we offer the link here should you wish to investigate it further.

Bahia is a truly beautiful city (and that's coming from one who isn't exactly a "city" type of guy). Its location alone, on a peninsula in an almost "magical" setting would, in and of itself pretty much guarantee star status. Add to that the "EcoCity" focus, extensive rebuilding and restoration, amazing waterfront, and, of course, the recently completed bridge to San Vincente and one can immediately recognize why Bahia de Caraquez simply must be added to you "must see" list of places in Ecuador. The city is smaller than we had been led to believe when researching it on the web. While there are a number of condo type buildings and a couple of fairly large hotels, short term lodging accommodations can be difficult to obtain as we discovered. Once again though that which initially appeared to be misfortune ("no vacancy") turned out to be a blessing in disguise. While not initially our "first choice" we were able to make reservations at a smaller, B&B type property called "Casa Grande". Moments after our arrival we immediately recognized that should have been choice #1. Technically, Casa Grande defines itself as a "Boutique Hotel" and while that is as apt a descriptor as any, it fails to adequately convey the truly unique character of the building itself and more importantly, the dedication of the family and staff to perfection. Tucked away (almost hidden) a half block off the beach and behind a magnificent garden, Casa Grande can be difficult to locate but once you do you will be in for a delightful experience. The flowers, the birds, pool and surrounding grounds quickly carry you away and convince you this paradise simply cannot be in a city. Upon entering the main building you are again swept into another place - a grand and glorious past where moldings, trim-work, furnishings, and cabinetry were painstakingly hand crafted by artisans. Exotic hardwood flooring reflecting in dining room crystal and accenting the many works of original Ecuadorian art adorning the walls, completed a picture that could easily have been the cover of a 1950 edition of Architectural Digest. But this is not a museum, nor does it "feel" like one - it's a working, living, "home" - both for the current two generations of family members residing there and equally for those "guests" fortunate enough to be able to share the experience. As impressive as the physical property is itself, the true "beauty" doesn't shine through until one has a chance to meet and get to know Patricio Tamariz, his Mom, Sister, and the rest of the staff. Patricio manages day to day operations while "Mom" maintains a presence that insists upon and guarantees perfection on the part of the staff who do so flawlessly and seemingly effortlessly. During the course of our stay, Patricio related many of the historical aspects of both the house and the family, including the fact that Mom was a true pioneer in the field of Eco-Friendly Shrimp Farming. His love of history and pride in both family and country was at once, obvious and inspiring. Our first morning breakfast of shrimp omelets took on a meaning far greater than simply the sumptuous taste.
Patricio's connection with his country and its history though, runs much deeper. He is widely known and highly respected for his efforts on behalf of the city. But it is Chirije to which his heart truly belongs. Chirije is described here on the website as "...an ecolodge located on a secluded beach atop an ancient archaeological site." It is accessible only by driving the beach at low tide and includes a museum containing artifacts recovered from archeological "digs" which continue on an ongoing basis, as well as lodging facilities. Contact Patricio via the website or directly using his email address tamarizp@gmail.com for additional information, pricing, or reservations. When you do, please tell him "Hola" from us.

Our stay at Casa Grande was unique in yet another way. Not only did we add one NBFF (Patricio) to our list, but wether by "fate" or mere luck, our stay coincided with that of a delightful young lady visiting from Uruguay with whom we developed an almost immediate "bond" that grew each day to the point at which there was no question in our mind as to her inclusion among the elite NBFF's. Yannia Padula ("Jan" as she Englishizes it - although it seems a shame to with such a pretty name) is first and foremost a self-described "free spirit" and as such has lived a life of experiences far beyond her years. While in Bahia, she, of course, accompanied Patricio to Chirije to participate in a "dig" (never a doubt in our minds she'd pass up that opportunity<g>) and had plans to next visit Peurto Lopez for the whale watching experience. Our nightly conversations were often so intriguing as she described the litany of her experiences around the world that we'd fail to realize it was way past our bedtimes. Part of her time was spent convincing us to consider spending some time in "her" Uruguay and her talents as a good will ambassador for the country she loves were persuasive to say the least - it will be a couple years before we can swing it, but it will happen. In the meantime, we were able to secure her promise to visit us in the US asap. We're currently spiffing up the guest room in anticipation of her arrival and can't wait.<s>


From our temporary "base camp" in Bahia our intention was to visit and explore the areas from Crucita to the south, to Jama to the north. We had found a number of properties online prior to our departure for Ecuador that we wanted to visit and made arrangements with the realtors representing the properties for a visit. From what we had seen online, Crucita was one of our "short list" areas actually seeing the town in person did little to dissuade us from that position. Our travels up and down the coast and stops at the towns and villages along the way was creating an impression that seemed to gain more validity with each passing day. While something of a generalization it was becoming more apparent with each passing day that the further north we traveled along the coast - the more beautiful it became. There are exceptions, to be sure, but in general the towns seemed cleaner, had better infrastructure,  and more "modern" facilities and services. The beaches themselves also appeared, if not more beautiful, just somehow "better". While it's difficult to argue that the beach at Olon is anything but stunningly beautiful those further north are even more so. To some degree it may be a case of what we are used to, our perception of how a beach is "supposed" to be - there's little question that such is the case with respect to the sand itself. The beaches at Olon (and in the south in general) are typically composed of very, very fine grains that pack quite tightly when wet and tend to become dusty when dry. Those further north are more like we are accustomed to - larger grains, less "packing" and less dust.
While conducting our "research" prior to arrival in EC we had narrowed down the list of realtors by eliminating those with whom others had described problems. The real estate business in EC is very different from that in the US and still very much in a "wild west" sort of phase of its development. There is no MLS type service, licensing requirements are virtually non-existent, title documentation and legal protections available to the buyer of questionable veracity at best. Warnings to exercise extreme caution in the selection of a realtor abound and the web is replete with  examples of people being "scammed" by unscrupulous "realtors" (all too many of whom are expats themselves looking for the "quick buck".)
While we don't doubt that the advice is wise, or that at least a significant proportion of the "horror stories" is true, it's equally important not to throw the proverbial baby out with the bathwater and cast aspersion on the entire group as a result of the actions of a few. In our case, we can, and will recommend the two firms and individuals we dealt with in Crucita, unconditionally. We'll actually go a step further and nominate both for inclusion on the NBFF's list.
Why two separate firms in the same, relatively small, town you ask?
Goes back to that "no MLS" thing we discussed before. Things just don't work the same way here as you are used to. Generally speaking there is very little, if any, cooperation among realtors and often times no real way even for a realtor to know what is on the market if it's not his listing. Many times there is no "realtor" even involved - merely a "Se Vende" sign painted on the wall, sometimes with a phone number, other times not.
Each of the firms we dealt with had listings we were interested in seeing that the other did not. As such we had no choice but to deal with both and in the end, we're glad we did because not only did we thoroughly enjoy the time we spent with each, we learned a lot, had great meals, and now have two NBFF's we know we can count on in the future and know we can recommend to you without reservation.
Day 1 in Crucita we spent with Johnny Loor Zambrano of Crucita.Com. We had selected 3 or 4 houses, a couple of condos, and two lots to visit from those on the website. At this point we still were very much up in the air as to what exactly it was that we were interested in. That lack of focus is the bane of any realtor but Johnny handled it without batting an eye - even suggesting two additional properties we had not seen that he thought we simply "must see". After lunch, during which they must have temporarily lifted the country wide ban on alcohol sales, at least for this particular establishment, we ventured on to see a property we hadn't seen on the website but that he thought would be "perfect for you". From listening to our comments on the places we had seen, and our discussions at lunch he nailed it with this place. House and grounds, beautiful. Location, great. Price within our range (and unbelievable by comparison). Neighbors, not only wonderful but invited us into their home, showed us around, and spent almost an hour with us talking. Exactly the type of people we would love to have as neighbors and people with a "vision" for their "compound" that will insure it will remain the idyllic spot it is today despite future development.
So why didn't we buy if it was so perfect? Couple of reasons, first we weren't in a position to buy a house yet since we still have two years to retirement and must sell our house here first. Second because, despite the price and value, the house was just physically too big for us. We did; however, locate another set of NBFF's, a realtor we can recommend to you unconditionally, and one SCREAMIN' deal on a beachfront "mansion" with GREAT neighbors that we'd be happy to point you in the direction of (email us if interested).
Thank you Bill & Audrey and thank you too Johnny. Please stay in touch.

hummmm.....appears this blog editor has one of those "Twittle" type limits on the number of characters.....won't give me any more space to type in.....so I guess this will have,


TO BE CONTINUED......