N,BFF's - Part 2

When last we spoke, we had completed our first day of "house-hunting" in Crucita. Thought you might be interested to see a pic or two of the last place we spoke of, so here you go.

A look from the beach through the Portico

The Main House

The following day we returned to Crucita (about an hour and 15 minutes from Bahia) for round two. Another long day, saw a bunch of interesting properties but more importantly, made the acquaintance of, yet another, real "Pro" in the real estate biz. Tom Saunders, his lovely wife Lynn, and their incredible son Kai are as far from the stereotypical image many conjure up when thinking of a "real estate agent" - as is possible. The story of how their professional careers initially brought them to Ecuador is most interesting (you can read it on their website) and provides an insight into their love of their "adopted" home. After viewing a number of properties, enjoying an incredible almuerzo, and spending the better part of the day with the three of them, we knew in our hearts these were folks we could not only trust to look out for our best interests, but that we would very much like to have as neighbors - and friends. We consider them as such, and we're proud to add them to the list of NBFF's. We're also 100% comfortable recommending them to you as an honest, hardworking, firm that will protect your interests, work tirelessly on your behalf, and whom you will likely come away from with the same feelings we did. Despite their best efforts, and despite the number of places we saw that were incredible values, and despite the fact that Crucita and its surrounds impressed us as the most beautiful area we had seen yet, we still had not found that place that rang all the bells. Most were beautiful, some better than others, almost all incredible deals (by our standards), almost all too BIG (for us, in the price range we were looking), but that "This is IT!" light just never seemed to go on in both of our hearts at the same time. This, of course, doesn't mean they might not for you. The important thing though is that Tom and his company is a valuable resource to keep in your quiver.
The contact info for EcuadorBeachFrontProperty is here.

Returning to Bahia and the Casa Grand for an originally unplanned for, extra night held an extra degree of anticipation as we were finally able to arrange for a visit to new beach front community we had been watching for over a year on the web and was high on our, "sight unseen, short list". As anyone who has spent any amount of time banging around the web knows full well, one cannot take all that is published there at face value. It's way too easy to create an image on a website that portrays almost anything in a light that simply isn't what it is in real life. "Too Good to be True" is a concept that comes all to frequently to mind, and in many cases one that proves to be the case. Indeed, a number of the pictures we had seen of various properties had been "cropped" or the angle from which the photo taken specifically designed to conceal attributes that would detract from the appeal, despite the fact that they exist. From a marketing point of view it's totally understandable as to why it's done, but from a "trust" perspective, once you view the scene in person and recognize the "deception" - trust wanes. Sadly, the prevalence of the practice in our society, results in an almost innate distrust of most of what exists on the web. Likewise, in this new digital age, it's quite possible for a single (or small number) "disgruntled" employee, customer, constituent, etc, to create a whirlwind of negative publicity that may even go "viral" - justified or not. Such is the age in which we live, and it's imperative that anyone relying on the internet as a major source of their information, take this fact into consideration.
We first became aware of CocoBeachVillage very near the same time we became aware of Ecuador as a possible retirement destination - over a year ago. At that time it was still in its infancy, the majority of lots, both "beachfront" and "second line", were unsold, and it was very much in the "pre-construction" phase of development. The website was impressive, not so much from a technical point of view as from a "vision" one of the two brothers involved as principals. There is a fine line (at least in our minds) between "impressive", and, "two good to be true". In this case, it was both. We were impressed to the point that we, literally, came to the point of making a commitment for a front line lot online, filled in the forms, and just couldn't push the "Send" button when the "To Good to be True" instinct kicked in.
The morning of our site visit Gary Swenson met us at Casa Grand and we headed north to see the property. The hour plus drive was probably the most informative and educational hour we spent during our entire 5 week stay in Ecuador. Gary's knowledge of the area and the country in general is extensive and his willingness to share his numerous experiences insightful. Prior to arriving at CBV we made a short detour to Jama where he showed us the new hospital, infrastructure improvements, and introduced us to a couple of local "friends". Their respect for, and genuine friendship exhibited toward him was immediately obvious. That one of the main tenets of the CBV "vision" (to be a good neighbor), had been achieved, was not only obvious but went a long way towards negating the "too good to be true" thoughts.
Our arrival at CBV was the final straw....literally within our first minutes those lights, indeed fireworks, went off - "THIS IS IT!!" Everything we had hoped for, all of our "wish list" items, they all came together....add to that the fact that Gary didn't spend ONE MINUTE "selling" it to us. Truth be told, Gary really is a terrible "salesman" (in the sense that we typically think of a "salesman"). In fact, the two comments from that day that have stuck with us are that one (to which we added that "you (Gary), really don't have to be a salesman because CBV sells itself"), and "CBV is even better than we imagined and our expectations couldn't have been higher". Seems we were not the first to express either opinion.
This post, though, isn't supposed to be about CBV, it's about our NBFF's and if you haven't figured it out by now, Gary Swenson ranks right up with the best of them. So too does his brother Larry who, despite the fact that we've not yet met face to face is so obviously his "brother's brother", and, such an integral part of the "vision" of CBV that his inclusion is a given. These are guys that simply do what they say they will do, start from a set of principled values, have a true "vision" that balances the greater good with profit, and with whom you can trust to do business with on a handshake. Years ago, such traits wouldn't have been considered so far out of the mainstream - today they are.
We'll revisit our trip to CBV in a future post with some more details, pictures, and information soon, but for now...
Here is the link to the CBV website.

If you have stuck with us to this point you can be excused for thinking "these two are a pair of polyannas willing to trust anyone" or maybe that we bought two giant pairs of rose colored glasses prior to leaving for EC and wore them full time. I might believe that if I were you but will tell you such is not the case. Trust me, ask those that know us, or ask anyone that has crossed Mrs. V by doing less than 100% for one of "her" (their) kids. Remember, these pages are specifically dedicated to those that went "above and beyond" and earned our trust and friendship so, of course, it's all good. We could make a page of those that didn't, but it would be a short one and not very interesting.

Just noticed that our next entry is a couple of days out of chronological context (happened before we left the beach house in Curia for Bahia) but that's back on the last blog entry and way too much work to change now so you'll just have to deal with it<g>).
We've made a couple of references to the gentleman that is the property manager of the beach house we rented in Curia - Carlos, one of which, having to do with the night we arrived and couldn't get in to the house, was probably not the most glowing. Despite that initial, somewhat disconcerting "introduction", Carlos and his wife Jeanette became yet another of those we will always remember as NBFF's. Despite the fact that their home was located just a few houses up the beach from us, and that as manager for our place we would call him whenever we had an "issue" or needed help, we didn't have the opportunity to spend nearly as much time with them as we wish we would have. "Life" just got in the way - for both of us. For us, it was the constant array of "day trips", for them, a combination of fighting the bureaucracy to obtain a resident visa and entertaining a group of 19 American "volunteers" in their home who arrived to volunteer for "community service". It took us a couple of weeks to find a night that worked for both of us but we finally were able to and arranged to meet them in Salinas for dinner at Gabriela's (the Italian restaurant we learned of when meeting the owner at the 4th of July party at Score). Our first really "social" get together, but a continuation of a relationship we'd been building over the month on a day by day, but informal, basis. Dinner provided us the opportunity to just "talk" and get to know each other - to learn more about our backgrounds and how we each got to the point we find ourselves on life's journey. Suffice it to say, Carlos and Jeanette are two extraordinary individuals, with interesting and incredible histories, and whom have dedicated a significant portion of their lives to improving that of those around them. In addition, they are just plain "fun, and nice" folk that we enjoyed spending all the time we could, with. Carlos is native born Ecuadorian but spent much of his life in the US where he met his wife Jeanette. They will be spending their "retirement" years in EC but hardly in "retirement". Regardless of where we end up, we'll be seeing them again and should you find yourself in the Curia area and need a "friend", email us and we'll give you their number - you'll not find a better one. Likewise, contact us if you're interested in donating some time and effort to their cause and we'll put you in touch.

Back on the time line, and back to the beach house things settle down for a while at least as it pertains to meeting additional NBFF's. We spent time with Carlos, Jeanette, Todd, Leigh, Ivan, and met a couple others who, had we had the time, could well have qualified for inclusion on the NBFF list. But, sadly, the end of our journey was closing in and it was time to head back to Quito.
Our intention was to leave the beach a couple days before we actually had to in order to have time to visit Quayaquil, Cuenca, Banos, and then return to Quito in time for our return flight home - and so we did.
We'll recount those days later but as it appears we're running out of space (yet again!) we'll time-warp ahead to our final afternoon/night in Quito and revisit yet another NBFF we mentioned briefly at the outset.
If you recall, our initial contact with the rental car agency we had made arrangements with online prior to our arrival in EC didn't start off on the best of terms. We had printed out the reservation details and terms and figured it should be a relatively painless transaction. We were packed, geared up for the 8-9 hour trip through the mountains to the beach, and excited about moving into our new "digs" on the coast.
Arriving at the airport counter on time for the pickup was about the only thing that went according to plan for the next couple hours. That no one there spoke English, and that our command of Espanol was virtually non-existent, meant that either of us understanding the other's point of view was close to impossible. Patricio was eventually drafted as translator which helped to clarify the differences but it wasn't until Roberto (who spoke very good English) arrived that we could get down to business. Long story short, our reservation was made with the parent company (whom we'll not name here until the issue is finally "resolved"), and the "parent" company hadn't bothered to inform the "local" company (Roberto) of the terms. Once we were able to understand each others position, and agree that each of us had a valid point, we were able to move forward and, finally, agree on how to proceed. Were this to take place on our home turf, we'd have walked out, went next store, and dealt with someone else regardless of price - just on principal. Not having a command of the language (our fault) and with the pressures of time weighing heavily, we did what we felt we had to do under the circumstances.
By way of background, it should be noted here that pretty much every piece of advice you will read will tell you in no uncertain terms that 1) you don't need a car, 2) rental cars are outrageously expensive, and 3) you're NUTS to even consider driving anywhere in EC. Be that as it may, in our case, if we had it to do all over again we'd do exactly the same thing we did. Our circumstances may be very different than yours but our advice would be to ignore those that dismiss renting a car out of hand - IF it makes sense for your plans.
Back to Quito, our last day, and returning the car. One of the things that has become "urban legend" is that every rent a car place will clean your clock when you return the car....don't pay for the additional collision insurance and when you return it they'll find thousands of dollars of "damage" that you'll be forced to pay for. We heard this on line, heard it from any number of people we trusted, and were, quite frankly, experiencing an elevated level of trepidation in anticipation of the return. What we actually encountered was, as far from that one could imagine.
We planned our arrival in Quito so as to be able to stop first at the Andino and drop our bags, then drive to the airport and return the car since our plane left the next morning at 6am. Keep in mind that we originally had only planned to keep the car for one week and we ended up keeping it for almost 5 (keeping in touch with them in the interim) and that we also had an "issue" midstream where we had to replace two tires, so the final "bill" could, arguably, be anywhere between $1000 and $2000 depending on one's interpretation).
Upon arrival at the Andino (downtown Quito), we called Roberto to advise him of our arrival and intention to return the car to the airport in an hour or so and to be certain that he would be there so as to avoid the language barrier. After a couple of calls back and forth, we made contact. When we did he asked, "Would you like me to pick up the car there (at the hotel)?".......Are you KIDDING?.....save me the rush hour drive to the airport and bus ride back?......(but......how much is THIS going to cost me???)......"No extra charge" he replies......
So, since my Mother didn't raise no fool, we make the arrangements.
He shows up, we conduct the formalities, I can't locate the receipt for the tires and he says "just tell me about how much it was".....his guy checks over the car and doesn't question a thing even though there were a couple "obvious" (pre existing) conditions (for which I had photos) and made the phone calls to finalize the credit card transactions. While the entire process took close to an hour, only 10 minutes or so of that hour were "business" - the rest was shaking hands, talking with Mrs. V and Mom, gabbing, and learning to trust each other in a situation where, were it to take place in the US, he had the obvious "upper hand" and could easily have taken advantage. That the entire tenor of the transaction was so diametrically opposed to that we would expect (at home) left an impression that won't soon be forgotten and summed up our entire stay in EC and virtually everyone we did "business" with.
I would recommend Roberto and his business without reservation (but with the proviso that you contact him directly rather than use internet sites that we did to make the arrangements) You can do so at:
Roberto Parejia - 09 045 7690

We have intentionally omitted some of the personal contact information of our NBFF's usually because we don't have explicit permission to disclose it on a public forum and won't do so without it. If you would like to contact one of them privately, feel free to contact us via email and we'll put you in touch.

We're not sure if our descriptions here can come close to conveying the degree to which Roberto, Carlos, Gary, Leigh, and the others have impacted the impression of Ecuador that we bring back home with us but we hope so.
We hope too, that you will find our endorsements of these individuals helpful should you find yourself in need of the specific services they provide, or even if you should find yourself just in need of a "friend" as I'm sure each and every one would help if they can - just because they could and because that's who they are.

New, Best Friends - Forever

After something of a diversion (see previous post) it's time again to focus on that which we had intended to yesterday - our "Dedicated To" page of the blog.
Traditionally the "Dedication" page comes first, even before the index, but "traditional" isn't one of the top six items likely to be suggested by friends for inclusion on my tombstone so I guess we'll just have to go with it being included here.
As mentioned in the last post we have been thinking about how to formulate this post. How to be sure we didn't omit any of the many people who were such a special part of our trip. Should it be just a "list" of those who can provide services and assistance to others visiting EC? Should it include things like restaurants, "touristy" stuff, etc, etc, etc?
As luck would have it, the decision to postpone publication of this post, and the receipt of two emails from very "special" friends in the interim, helped us agree on a course of action. Totally by coincidence we received those emails, almost literally, within minutes of each other. Each was from someone we met by "happenstance" during our trip and while they will occupy a special place in our memories, and, hopefully remain "friends" even if "long distance" for years to come, their stories are better told as part of upcoming "diary" type posts. Our focus here will be on contacts we made with people we feel comfortable recommending to others who might wish to avail themselves of their services, should they have the need to do so. For the most part that is. More than a few of those included sort of "cross the line" between personal friends and "service providers". That's one of the best memories we carried back home with us on our return from EC - the fact that what starts out as a business relationship can very quickly turn into one of a personal nature with a mutual degree of trust and respect not common in the dog eat dog world we function in at home. One does certainly need to exercise a reasonable degree of caution in any business transaction as "sharks" exist everywhere but, unless we were just extraordinarily lucky in those we came in contact with, the "shark" population is a much smaller segment than that which we take for granted at home.
So, without further ado, let's get to the "list". We'll list people pretty much in the order we met them so as to eliminate any concerns of implied "favoritism" or the need to have to alphabetize (yet, another, of my "not so strong - suits").

You've heard before about the very first person we met upon our arrival in Ecuador - Patricio. He was indeed the most welcome sight imaginable, holding up the sign with our name at the airport after a verrrrry long day of traveling and arriving in a country much less willing to cater to our inability to communicate than we expected. If you are planning your first trip to EC and, like us, your command of the Spanish language is pretty much limited to "adios" and "Margarita" and you spend more than 2 seconds debating the wisdom of spending the couple extra bucks to have Patricio (or another driver) meet you at the airport and take you to your hotel please stop reading right now as nothing else we will have to suggest is likely to fall on ears connected to a brain capable of reason. Yes, if you know the city, arrive during daylight hours, haven't spent the last 8, 10, or 12 hours banging around airports and schlepping bags, you could save yourself a couple of bucks by grabbing a taxi or even a couple more on a bus but is that REALLY how you want to start your trip? If we were talking about a 100 bucks it might be a consideration...for 10 or 12 (for the vehicle, NOT per person) you really have to be nuts to do it any other way. But we digress (big surprise) back to Patricio.
After being "on time" to pick us up (not always a "given" in a society with a deeply entrenched "manana" culture), delivering us directly and without incident to our hotel, and being able to converse in a combination of our "Spanglish" and his much more adept English, Patricio very quickly became our "hero". In the next couple of days, during which we employed his services first for a 6 hour day trip, then for a "long" day trip of 12-14 hours to Otovalo and surrounds, another trip to the airport to pick up our son, and yet another airport run to pick up our rental car - he became much more than a "driver". He became a true "friend" and one we couldn't recommend more highly. His vehicle is nearly new, immaculately maintained and driven by a true "pro" who knows not only the city but its surrounds intimately. While we didn't utilize the services of any other "tour" or "car" services while in Quito (didn't feel the need since we were 100% satisfied), from reports of others who did that we had researched, his prices are well within reason. Finally, the fact that he came to us via our next "New Best Friends" recommendation (in fact, actually arranged) would prove to be the very best endorsement one could hope to achieve and one which could not have served us better. While Patricio is not, technically, an employee (as far as I know), the best way to arrange for his services is through Miguel at the Andino Hotel, our next NBFF.

Next on our list of  "NBFF's" is Don Miguel, his wife Paola, and the entire "crew" of the Hotel Andino. We've spoken before of our simply wonderful experience(s) on each occasion that we were their guests. Virtually from the first minute we arrived (actually even before we arrived if you consider the arrangements made in advance with Patricio) we felt like "family". Yes, it sounds trite, especially after you read the reviews of others who have stayed here and "family" is the word most often repeated, but in this case it's true - there is no other word that adequately describes the degree of care, attention to detail, and honest desire to meet any and all needs of their guests that the Andino staff demonstrates day in and day out. You will be able to find more "lavish" rooms and more opulent venues around town if such is your wont but you'll not find anyplace with a staff more dedicated to "you" and assuring that you, too, leave the Andino with the same feeling we had - that of adding yet another to our list of those we would truly be proud to call "friends".
Click here for the website
and here for the TripAdvisor Review

In an effort to remain "true" to the chronological pecking order we should mention here that after spending our first four days in and around Quitio we set off for "the beach". We had made arrangements previously (online) to pick up a rental car at the airport. Once again, Patricio to the rescue. We loaded our bags and crammed the five of us into his Hyundai and headed out for what we thought would be a simple matter of grab the keys, sign the papers, set up the GPS, and hit the road. Didn't quite go as smoothly as we had hoped, but with Patricio's help translating, and later Roberto's intervention, we were finally off. Our original intention was to keep the car for a week, returning it when we brought our son Dean back to Quito for his return flight home. Like the old saw goes - "the best laid plans.....". We ended up keeping it for the balance of our time in EC and will continue our discussion of Roberto's nomination to the NBFF role at the point where we returned the car.

Arriving at the beach after a 9+ hour drive, after dark, in a tiny village with dirt streets, no street signs, and very limited lighting was challenging enough for some already frayed nerves created by the driving tactics encountered during the journey (think "Nuts"!). That there was no outside light at the house, and more significantly, that the hidden key didn't fit the lock, and that the local property manager had informed us earlier that he would be out of town, didn't exactly produce the warm and fuzzy - "Welcome Home" moment we had anticipated. Long story short, our Son pressed his rock climbing skiils into service scaling a couple walls, traversing a neighbor's roof, and shortly thereafter emerging from behind the (now opened), front door. So much for the "security walls, iron gates, and window bars"<s>. While not exactly humorous at the time, we can look back upon the scene now and laugh, but more importantly, consider Carlos (the manager) and his lovely wife Jeanette high up on our NBFF list. Sometimes, despite people's best intentions, shxxxt just "happens". We'll include a more "formal" introduction to them in a later post.

After settling in to the beach house it was time for another "road trip". We had seen mention made on one of the blogs of an Expat, 4th of July celebration party to be held at Score Sports Bar in Salinas so we pointed the rentacar "down" the coast (south) for the 1 1/2 hour drive arriving a couple hours early to allow time to explore the city and its Malecon. At the appointed hour we located Score and walked into what could have been "any bar" in "any town, USA" with numerous couples, some families, a few single/gringles - all speaking a language we could understand! Within minutes we were welcomed by some of the expats we "knew" from reading their blogs as well as others we didn't. While most of those in attendance were either full time EC expat residents or longer term "visitors" there were also a few who, like us, were first timers "exploring" the possibilities of a future in EC. The conversations were lively, informative, and generally just "good fun". During the course of the evening raffle tickets were sold with proceeds going to fund an operation required for the daughter of one of the staff - a local Mother who would not otherwise be able to afford the procedure. Typical of our "luck" (not able to win a free lunch at the Salvation Army) one of our tickets WON! The prize, a couple hour use of a jetski, had been donated by a local merchant as had they all. We, of course, would be unable to use the "prize" since Dean would be returning to the US. Actually it turned out fine when we had Rick run a mini-auction and sell the prize again - raising an additional $30 for the fund. Another of the donated "prizes" was diner at a local, Salinas Italian restaurant purported to be the best around for miles. While we didn't win that one (naturally) we did have an opportunity to meet the proprietor - Gabriella who was in attendance and a most delightful lady. Note to self...we'll be back to Salinas for dinner there - and so should you. (see our more detailed write up in a future post). Two other attendees of note that evening, neither of which actually made the NBFF list but should be mentioned included, first: the Mayor of Salinas (complete with his entourage) who arrived and spent a considerable amout of time "welcoming" the expat community to his city (either in Espanol or through his interpreter) and doing the things that all politicians do in similar circumstances - pumping the flesh and baby kissing are, apparently, universal acts taught worldwide in "politician" school. Later that evening, during the fireworks display on the beach another group of local officials dropped by. Due to our still almost non-existent comprehension skills of the Spanish language, we weren't quite sure of the exact nature of their "welcome" or their exact titles but they were all very smartly attired and must have been members of the same family as each had "Policia" emblazoned on their backs.
 
Back at the beach house we were (finally) able to hook up with our "neighbors" down the beach in Olon - Leigh and Todd Frost. We "met" Leigh online through her blog Olon Again.... Naturally which we had been following for the months leading up to our departure and from which we gleaned considerable insight as to what to expect. As a side note, we highly recommend spending the time necessary to read as many of the expat blogs as you can prior to your first trip to Ecuador as there is a wealth of information available on more topics than one can imagine. Some are better than others and Leigh's is one of the best but all have something of value and will greatly assist in your quest to learn of the "real" Ecuador - unlike some of the more popular, and commercialized websites interested primarily in getting you to sign up for one of their services or sell you real estate. Another very good site to include in your "arsenal" is South of Zero which, on a daily basis, compiles a list of those blogs which have been updated that day, thereby sparing you the effort of having to check through your entire list and also introducing you to blogs you might not have been aware of. Add it to your "favorites".
Leigh and Todd have lived in Olon for a few years, become an integral part of the community, are closing in on having a pretty solid command of Espanol, and are generally just all-around "good folk". After spending time with them on a couple of occasions we are proud to call them NBFF's and only wish we would have been able to spend more time together (although there is little doubt we will in the future). Part of the reason we couldn't is that they are not yet ready to actually "retire" and, unlike many expats, actually do have "jobs" which occupy some of their time. They are perhaps the perfect example of that class of NBFF's we spoke of earlier with one toe on each side of "friend and service provider" line. While we didn't avail ourselves of their services (only because we had made our arrangements prior to learning of their business) they are a valuable resource you should keep in mind if looking for beach rental properties in the Olon area. Contact Leigh through her blog or have a look at some of the properties they represent here on the EcuaFriendly website (be sure to check out both the  "Other Rentals" and "Guest Comments" tabs). Posts yet to be penned will include photos and as much detail as we can remember through the wine induced haze of a couple of our "dates."

After spending almost every day traveling up and down the coast visiting as many of the towns and villages as we could in an attempt to get a "handle" on the various areas and amazingly diverse "micro-climates" we reached the limits of travel north that could be completed in a "day trip" and decided to plan a two night overnight stay in Bahia both to see the renowned "EcoCity" and to explore the surrounding areas. Before we left though one of our Curia "neighbors" - a local lady by the name of Helena introduced us to her cousin Ivan and his delightful daughter Riesha who were visiting from the Cordoba Region of Argentina. Ivan is a most interesting individual, devoted father, and has a deep devotion to all things spiritual, ecological, and artistic. Back at home, he operates Ecoposada y Refugio de montana an ecofriendly spiritual center. While not an Ecuador resource, and the website is not in English we offer the link here should you wish to investigate it further.

Bahia is a truly beautiful city (and that's coming from one who isn't exactly a "city" type of guy). Its location alone, on a peninsula in an almost "magical" setting would, in and of itself pretty much guarantee star status. Add to that the "EcoCity" focus, extensive rebuilding and restoration, amazing waterfront, and, of course, the recently completed bridge to San Vincente and one can immediately recognize why Bahia de Caraquez simply must be added to you "must see" list of places in Ecuador. The city is smaller than we had been led to believe when researching it on the web. While there are a number of condo type buildings and a couple of fairly large hotels, short term lodging accommodations can be difficult to obtain as we discovered. Once again though that which initially appeared to be misfortune ("no vacancy") turned out to be a blessing in disguise. While not initially our "first choice" we were able to make reservations at a smaller, B&B type property called "Casa Grande". Moments after our arrival we immediately recognized that should have been choice #1. Technically, Casa Grande defines itself as a "Boutique Hotel" and while that is as apt a descriptor as any, it fails to adequately convey the truly unique character of the building itself and more importantly, the dedication of the family and staff to perfection. Tucked away (almost hidden) a half block off the beach and behind a magnificent garden, Casa Grande can be difficult to locate but once you do you will be in for a delightful experience. The flowers, the birds, pool and surrounding grounds quickly carry you away and convince you this paradise simply cannot be in a city. Upon entering the main building you are again swept into another place - a grand and glorious past where moldings, trim-work, furnishings, and cabinetry were painstakingly hand crafted by artisans. Exotic hardwood flooring reflecting in dining room crystal and accenting the many works of original Ecuadorian art adorning the walls, completed a picture that could easily have been the cover of a 1950 edition of Architectural Digest. But this is not a museum, nor does it "feel" like one - it's a working, living, "home" - both for the current two generations of family members residing there and equally for those "guests" fortunate enough to be able to share the experience. As impressive as the physical property is itself, the true "beauty" doesn't shine through until one has a chance to meet and get to know Patricio Tamariz, his Mom, Sister, and the rest of the staff. Patricio manages day to day operations while "Mom" maintains a presence that insists upon and guarantees perfection on the part of the staff who do so flawlessly and seemingly effortlessly. During the course of our stay, Patricio related many of the historical aspects of both the house and the family, including the fact that Mom was a true pioneer in the field of Eco-Friendly Shrimp Farming. His love of history and pride in both family and country was at once, obvious and inspiring. Our first morning breakfast of shrimp omelets took on a meaning far greater than simply the sumptuous taste.
Patricio's connection with his country and its history though, runs much deeper. He is widely known and highly respected for his efforts on behalf of the city. But it is Chirije to which his heart truly belongs. Chirije is described here on the website as "...an ecolodge located on a secluded beach atop an ancient archaeological site." It is accessible only by driving the beach at low tide and includes a museum containing artifacts recovered from archeological "digs" which continue on an ongoing basis, as well as lodging facilities. Contact Patricio via the website or directly using his email address tamarizp@gmail.com for additional information, pricing, or reservations. When you do, please tell him "Hola" from us.

Our stay at Casa Grande was unique in yet another way. Not only did we add one NBFF (Patricio) to our list, but wether by "fate" or mere luck, our stay coincided with that of a delightful young lady visiting from Uruguay with whom we developed an almost immediate "bond" that grew each day to the point at which there was no question in our mind as to her inclusion among the elite NBFF's. Yannia Padula ("Jan" as she Englishizes it - although it seems a shame to with such a pretty name) is first and foremost a self-described "free spirit" and as such has lived a life of experiences far beyond her years. While in Bahia, she, of course, accompanied Patricio to Chirije to participate in a "dig" (never a doubt in our minds she'd pass up that opportunity<g>) and had plans to next visit Peurto Lopez for the whale watching experience. Our nightly conversations were often so intriguing as she described the litany of her experiences around the world that we'd fail to realize it was way past our bedtimes. Part of her time was spent convincing us to consider spending some time in "her" Uruguay and her talents as a good will ambassador for the country she loves were persuasive to say the least - it will be a couple years before we can swing it, but it will happen. In the meantime, we were able to secure her promise to visit us in the US asap. We're currently spiffing up the guest room in anticipation of her arrival and can't wait.<s>


From our temporary "base camp" in Bahia our intention was to visit and explore the areas from Crucita to the south, to Jama to the north. We had found a number of properties online prior to our departure for Ecuador that we wanted to visit and made arrangements with the realtors representing the properties for a visit. From what we had seen online, Crucita was one of our "short list" areas actually seeing the town in person did little to dissuade us from that position. Our travels up and down the coast and stops at the towns and villages along the way was creating an impression that seemed to gain more validity with each passing day. While something of a generalization it was becoming more apparent with each passing day that the further north we traveled along the coast - the more beautiful it became. There are exceptions, to be sure, but in general the towns seemed cleaner, had better infrastructure,  and more "modern" facilities and services. The beaches themselves also appeared, if not more beautiful, just somehow "better". While it's difficult to argue that the beach at Olon is anything but stunningly beautiful those further north are even more so. To some degree it may be a case of what we are used to, our perception of how a beach is "supposed" to be - there's little question that such is the case with respect to the sand itself. The beaches at Olon (and in the south in general) are typically composed of very, very fine grains that pack quite tightly when wet and tend to become dusty when dry. Those further north are more like we are accustomed to - larger grains, less "packing" and less dust.
While conducting our "research" prior to arrival in EC we had narrowed down the list of realtors by eliminating those with whom others had described problems. The real estate business in EC is very different from that in the US and still very much in a "wild west" sort of phase of its development. There is no MLS type service, licensing requirements are virtually non-existent, title documentation and legal protections available to the buyer of questionable veracity at best. Warnings to exercise extreme caution in the selection of a realtor abound and the web is replete with  examples of people being "scammed" by unscrupulous "realtors" (all too many of whom are expats themselves looking for the "quick buck".)
While we don't doubt that the advice is wise, or that at least a significant proportion of the "horror stories" is true, it's equally important not to throw the proverbial baby out with the bathwater and cast aspersion on the entire group as a result of the actions of a few. In our case, we can, and will recommend the two firms and individuals we dealt with in Crucita, unconditionally. We'll actually go a step further and nominate both for inclusion on the NBFF's list.
Why two separate firms in the same, relatively small, town you ask?
Goes back to that "no MLS" thing we discussed before. Things just don't work the same way here as you are used to. Generally speaking there is very little, if any, cooperation among realtors and often times no real way even for a realtor to know what is on the market if it's not his listing. Many times there is no "realtor" even involved - merely a "Se Vende" sign painted on the wall, sometimes with a phone number, other times not.
Each of the firms we dealt with had listings we were interested in seeing that the other did not. As such we had no choice but to deal with both and in the end, we're glad we did because not only did we thoroughly enjoy the time we spent with each, we learned a lot, had great meals, and now have two NBFF's we know we can count on in the future and know we can recommend to you without reservation.
Day 1 in Crucita we spent with Johnny Loor Zambrano of Crucita.Com. We had selected 3 or 4 houses, a couple of condos, and two lots to visit from those on the website. At this point we still were very much up in the air as to what exactly it was that we were interested in. That lack of focus is the bane of any realtor but Johnny handled it without batting an eye - even suggesting two additional properties we had not seen that he thought we simply "must see". After lunch, during which they must have temporarily lifted the country wide ban on alcohol sales, at least for this particular establishment, we ventured on to see a property we hadn't seen on the website but that he thought would be "perfect for you". From listening to our comments on the places we had seen, and our discussions at lunch he nailed it with this place. House and grounds, beautiful. Location, great. Price within our range (and unbelievable by comparison). Neighbors, not only wonderful but invited us into their home, showed us around, and spent almost an hour with us talking. Exactly the type of people we would love to have as neighbors and people with a "vision" for their "compound" that will insure it will remain the idyllic spot it is today despite future development.
So why didn't we buy if it was so perfect? Couple of reasons, first we weren't in a position to buy a house yet since we still have two years to retirement and must sell our house here first. Second because, despite the price and value, the house was just physically too big for us. We did; however, locate another set of NBFF's, a realtor we can recommend to you unconditionally, and one SCREAMIN' deal on a beachfront "mansion" with GREAT neighbors that we'd be happy to point you in the direction of (email us if interested).
Thank you Bill & Audrey and thank you too Johnny. Please stay in touch.

hummmm.....appears this blog editor has one of those "Twittle" type limits on the number of characters.....won't give me any more space to type in.....so I guess this will have,


TO BE CONTINUED......

Don't Text, Don't Twitter.....

....and for good reason - I'm old!!!
Still believe that kids actually WANT parents to impose limits...That they actually DO need to hear the word "no" every now and then...That parents should be parents - not "Buddies".....That one should be able to take a person at their word....Trust that others will do their jobs, do what they say they will do when they said they would do it....and actually stand on "principal" to do the "right" thing despite the direction in which the politically expedient winds blow at the moment.
You know......."old guy stuff" - get my point?
If you haven't recognized it by now, in addition to holding on to a set of values that at times seem to have gone the way of the dinosaur, buggywhip, black and white TV, and the typewriter, my other "old guy" tip off involves the use of the Twitter and texting - I DON'T NOW, never have, and likely never will!
140 characters? One letter at a time on a phone where I struggle to see the numbers (let alone figure out that typing a "v" is three taps on the "8" - thanks but no thanks, I like it here just fine in the stone age and have every intention of remaining.
Were I forced to, I could probably learn to do that typing on a phone pad thing - but when it comes to the 140 character deal to Twit there's simply no hope.
Doubt I could order a cup of coffee in 140 characters - let alone actually "say" anything.
Yup....I'm wordy-first to admit it. Never be employed as an editor for Cliff Notes and quite frankly, neither care, nor intend to spend much time attempting to change - I don't have to (age has its benefits).
So, if you hadn't figured it out by now, and you're still here, and you are of the Tweat-ilk, feel free to hit the "back" button and return to the "slices of life" vignettes which define your comfort zone. No hard feelings. Know, though, that if you stay - you do so at your own risk and might venture into territory totally apart from that which you expected.
Take this post, for example - "Don't Text, don't twitter..." Six paragraphs down from the top you've got a pretty good idea of where it was going....might even say it could end here and be done with it....Why then, if you were to scroll down, would you see hundreds and hundreds of additional words?
Two reasons:
First.....NEVER, under ANY Circumstances say in 140 characters or less that which can be said in x hundred (or thousand) words (lest one be accused of being "twit-capable") - you have your little "quirks", I have mine.
Second...This post was originally entitled "Our New Best Friends Forever" and intended to provide a list of some of those really "special" folks we met on our journey, both to acknowledge our appreciation of their efforts on our behalf, and to provide a list of individuals whom we could recommend unconditionally to others who might wish to avail themselves of their services.
We wanted to introduce the topic with a couple of our observations of the Ecuadorian people in general and those we encountered and befriended specifically. That "morphed" into some thoughts about cultural differences and customs, which morphed into.....(you get the idea).
So.....change the title, add this opening explanation after the fact and "let 'er rip". (The "New Best Friends.." piece will follow, separately, and therefore - shorter (believe that?....where you been?)

Even after how ever many thousand kilometers of unbelievably scenic vistas - there is always another around the next bend

 
As breathtakingly beautiful and diverse as Ecuador is, its true beauty lies in its people.
Beauty not in terms of outward physical appearance (though that is certainly there), but rather the inner beauty of their compassion, friendliness, commitment to family, reverence of both land and spirit, and genuine love of life.
For a foreigner, on their first visit to Ecuador, especially ones coming from what is commonly described as a "first world" culture (us), the "beauty" can, at first glance, be difficult to appreciate.
This is, indeed, a very different culture, and as much as I despise the term "third world" (as I'm guessing would the Ecuadorians as  well) it is one which most would understand in the context in which we use it here.
Despite spending a significant amount of time and effort over the past year or so to attain an understanding of the cultural differences which we would encounter (an exercise we would highly recommend to anyone considering visiting prior to their doing so), there really is no substitute for actual "boots on the ground". As much as you might think you actually "understand" the cultural differences prior to your arrival, you won't until you experience them first hand. Prior experiences in other "foreign" countries might help, but Ecuador is truly unique in many aspects and simply must be experienced first hand.
The "pre-trip" learning will make you aware of many of cultural differences which exist. Depending on from whom you obtain the information, some will be accurate and some will be either overblown or presented totally out of context. Things like "bars on the windows", "watch out for pickpockets", "don't ride the bus at night", or "abject poverty" are all, to some degree, true, but at the same time, in many cases, hyperbole.
Does petty crime exist in the touristy areas of the major cities? - of course (just as it does in NYC, Paris, or London)
Will you be intimidated by the fact that almost every property is surrounded by a 6 foot high "security wall" (some topped with broken glass) - probably...we were.
Does "abject poverty" describe the conditions under which much of the population lives (especially on the coast)? - at first glance, and based on your definition of "abject poverty",..probably so.
Please do not take our comments to imply that one need not be vigilant and take normal safety precautions (avoid "high risk" areas of cities at night, don't "flash" easily stolen jewelry, electronics, cash, etc) but also do not fall prey to the "doom and gloomers" who would have you believe there is a low life hiding behind every bush or on every bus. In our 5 weeks, and maybe we were just "lucky", but not once did we feel threatened or in jeopardy. We did take "normal" precautions - as we would do under any other circumstances.
This is not to say, though, that there are not significant cultural differences...there are....and gaining an understanding of them is imperative if one is to hope to assimilate.
With only 5 weeks exposure to the country, and virtually no comprehension of the language, we can't begin to believe that we have attained that "understanding"...we can, however, offer what we took away in hopes of providing a "real life" experience as opposed to those who might have an ulterior motive for providing theirs.
Possibly the most stark example, for us, involved the prevalence of security walls, gates, and window grates. They are, indeed, everywhere. It will likely be your first impression upon arrival in Ecuador and will reinforce all the "doom and gloom" stuff you've read. If you, like us, land in Quito (or Guayaquil), you'll be overwhelmed by it. If you, like us, travel to other parts of the country, hoping (and expecting) that it's just a "city" thing...you'll be disappointed to find that it's not. It's nation-wide....cities, towns, hamlets, countryside.
The doom and gloomers warnings seem warranted...maybe there really are criminals behind every bush ready to rape, pillage, and kill.
Maybe they are, maybe we were just lucky, or maybe it's a prime example of "culture shock" we're not quite capable of understanding.
Others have tried to explain the difference between how "we" define "stealing" in our culture and how "they" do. It's a concept most of us will have great difficulty comprehending but goes something along the lines of - if you have something (material) that you are not using, it's not "stealing" if I take it because I need it for my family. That is, of course, a monstrously oversimplified  generalization, but I would encourage you to "google" the concept for a more indepth explanation.
That being said, one need only look at the actual "security" afforded by those 6 foot high, sometimes broken glass topped, "security" walls. In the cities, they might actually fully encompass the property (as in, all four sides). Outside the cities though, and especially on the coast, the walls will be rock solid on three walls and either non-existent altogether, or a mere 2 foot high picket fence that wouldn't keep out a chicken on the beach side.
That the 6 foot high walls exist is the cultural statement that says "keep out"....that the fourth side wouldn't keep out a fly matters not.
All that said, are there properties on the beach with 24/7 armed guards?....you bet there are...and maybe that shoots (bad choice of words) my theory totally out of the water, but based on my (very limited, 5 week) experience, I'm betting it has much more to do with the cultural understanding of the word "steal" than the security provided by a three walled fence.
One other quick example and we'll let it go for now as ours are merely "observations" and certainly worthy of nothing more than, possibly, your consideration. As visitors to a land in which we recognize that a significant  percentage of the population exists at an income level that would be classified at home as "below poverty" many of us feel a need to "help" in whatever little way we can. The first, and most obvious method to do so is via the "tip" - a time honored tradition at home and very "personal", small way in which we can "help". And so we do. A buck "tip" here for the $2 taxi ride (which even with the tip comes to less than 1/3 of it would have been at home), or leaving the change from a $5 when paying for your $2.50 almuerzo (which would have cost double at least, anywhere else). Just a small thing and certainly not a lot of money but does our heart good to feel like we've "helped" in our own little way.
It surprised us to learn, and probably will you too, that the reaction of that person you "tipped" was likely exactly the opposite of what you might expect. Chances are your "generosity" and "good intentions" garnered not gratitude but rather disrespect. It isn't that the recipient of your largesse didn't need the money or even that they aren't appreciative (as we would hope) but rather that you have portrayed yourself, in their eyes, as one who doesn't understand the value of money and as such is unworthy of their respect.
A second aspect of the over (excessive) tipping propensity can result in more dire and longer lasting consequences. Take the situation where you venture into a small, neighborhood cabana frequented almost exclusively by "locals". They eat there every day and may never leave a dime more than the posted price (which may or may not include a 10% "servico") - it's the generally accepted practice and in many cases quite literally all they can afford. Waiters and waitresses and patrons alike understand how (and why) it works. Over time, you, me, and a few of our compatriots begin frequenting the joint bringing with us our "home" tipping ways. Throw another 10, 20% on top...hey it's still dirt cheap (and it makes me feel good). Doesn't take long before the service people begin to "expect" it, and not much longer after that the practice begins to gain "acceptance" and is "expected" from all patrons (local and gringo alike).
While one can argue that such an outcome would be a "good" thing in that it elevates the income level of the server, the other side of the coin is that it simultaneously raises the cost of that lunch for the "local" who was already stretched to the limit to afford it before the "increase".
Ecuador is unlike many other countries of the world in many, many ways - not the least of which is the fact that, for the most part the Ecuadorian people genuinely like us "gringos". The "ugly American" syndrome has yet to (and hopefully, will not) rear its ugly head. While the culture "shock" and differences might often make it difficult for "us" to comprehend, let alone agree with, customs and traditions which diverge from our own we must never forget that regardless of the degree to which we are able to "assimilate" we are still "visitors" and thereby obligated to respect the ways of our hosts.

Last Things, First.....or....

....the best laid plans.
When starting this blog we had the best of intentions to do a daily "diary" of our travel experiences.
As frequently happens, "life" often gets in the way of even the best of intentions and such was (obviously) the case here.
Consider it an "excuse" if you must, or a set of "reasons" why, but hopefully the explanations might shed some light for others considering pursuing a similar course in the future.
First, and probably most importantly, it was simply a case of not enough hours in a day. In the nearly 5 weeks we spent in EC I can only recall two days that we actually did "nothing" - just sit on the beach and relax. Every other day we were "on the road", sightseeing, doing the "touristy" things tourists do, meeting and spending time with our "new best friends", searching for properties, or adding to the couple thousand kilometers we piled on the rental car.
Most days we returned to the beach house late, having spent 10 to 12 hours out and dog tired. Posting to the blog while things were still fresh in our minds seemed like a very good idea. Doing it "manana" seemed like an even better idea.
While a typical blog page might take you 5 or 6 minutes to read it takes much longer to create. Writing the text is fairly straight forward, editing and proof reading take time though. Selecting photos, resizing, and positioning them within the blog always seems to take much longer than one would expect. Uploading the post, especially when it includes a number of photos can really be time consuming with a "sketchy" internet connection and ours at the beach brought back memories of 28.8k dial up of years gone by. Back then connection rates were still being measured in "baud" and 3200 baud or 28.8k was the theoretical top speed under "ideal" conditions. Actual download speeds were often in the single digits or low teens. Upload speeds often only 10% of download. Our connection at the beach house was via a USB GSM modem connected to mobile broadband and the result a perfect impersonation of 3200 baud! Throw in a large dose of "works when it feels like it" and frequent disconnects and you get an idea of the level of frustration.
So, where do we go from here?
In the coming days and weeks we'll post what we wish we had posted each day as it happened - a day at a time and (hopefully) in chronological order. But for the moment, here's a little recap of the last day of our journey.
After a whirlwind final week where we left the beach house and drove to Guayaquil, spent one night there then on to Cuenca for two nights, Banos de Aqua Santa for one night, and finally back to Quito for our last night and final ride to the airport for the trip home.
We returned to where we began - the wonderful (and HIGHLY recommended) AndinoHotel
Miguel, his wife, and the entire Andino staff have become "family" and couldn't possibly have provided a more welcoming atmosphere. There was simply no question in our minds where we would spend our final night or where we would advise anyone visiting Quito to stay.
Precisely on time at 3:45 am, our other "new best friend" in Quito - Patricio, arrived to take us from the Andino to the Aeropuerto - a 15-20 minute jaunt at this hour with streets almost totally deserted. After the final "goodbyes", "adiose's", hugs, and kisses, Patricio disappeared into the night and we were on our own.
Due to the "partner" relationship between Copa Airlines and Continental online boarding passes weren't available and the Copa agent could only issue passes for our first two legs. The final leg from Orlando to Newark was on Continental and we would have to obtain those passes either in Panama City or Orlando. The bags, however, would be checked through to Newark but we would have to pick them up at Orlando to clear customs then return them for the final leg to Newark. Sounds like more than ample opportunity for  a "screw up" and pretty close to a guarantee that something would go wrong. Oh well.....cross that bridge when we get to it.
Clearing the Ecuadorian version of TSA and Imigration went as well as could be expected and once again, Copa was wonderful in providing Mom with a wheelchair and transporting her to the gate waiting area. Despite an almost two hour wait before boarding, the Copa guy sat with us and waited until it was time for her to board.
About a half an hour before our departure time with the waiting area filling up there comes an announcement (all in Spanish of course) which includes a list of names, one of which is "Marilyn V.....". Not understanding the rest of the announcement we followed the lead of the others called and proceeded to the desk. The one word we did understand was "Policia" - this couldn't be good! After explaining to the other (Spanish speaking) passengers what was going on, the agent attempted to explain it to us. Unfortunately, her English was pretty much on the same level as our Spanish. What we got was that she was to follow the man downstairs to where the Policia were going to inspect her bag. Huh???....Why me???
"Ees OK" exclaims the gate agent, noting the sense of panic which must have been painfully obvious on our faces.
Marilyn and the other 5 or 6 passengers selected follow the security guy through a door clearly off limits to "regular folk".
Boarding for wheelchair passengers commences followed by calls for "rows 20-25"..."10-20"...and "all passengers". The waiting area is empty.....still no Marilyn.....
"Pointing to my watch, attempting to communicate the impending "crisis" developing in my mind, the gate agent again remarks "Ees OK......No problemo"
"No Problemo"??? - you've got to be kidding!!!
What if she's not back in time and the plane takes off.
Mom is already aboard, I have one foot on the plane and the other in the waiting area....will they let Mom back off? What if they don't? What if somebody stuck something in Marilyn's bag and she's in trouble? What if...what if....?
Finally, with literally a minute or two to spare before departure, she appears and we board.
If you've ever seen "The Look" on Mrs. V's face, you know better than to press the issue until she's ready to talk about it and clearly, NOW was not the time. It takes a lot to instill the level of fear which was painfully obvious on her face and which she later admitted was the worst she had experienced in her life.
Recounting the experience was difficult but went something like this:
"We were led through the catacombs, dimly lit corridors, down three flights of "utility" stairs to the belly, the "dungeon", out onto the tarmack in the cold and dark where the baggage handlers transferred luggage, and the Policia had 10 or 12 bags lined up and a couple of fold up tables hastily assembled in a haphazard manner.
One by one they instructed each passenger to select his/her luggage and bring it to the table for inspection. Picked it up, dumped it out, and went through each and every item then stuffing it all back in and releasing the bag and sending the passenger back upstairs.
Last in line and witnessing the process unfold did nothing to calm the fears. Indeed, given the amount of time it was taking with each person and the rapidly approaching departure time, the realization that even if all went well with the "search" there was a very real possibility of not getting back to the plane in time.
Much the same as my fears of someone having stuck something in the bag, so too did that thought feed the rapidly ascending fear level.
Finally the moment arrives and she is instructed to select her bags.
She does and attempts to place it on the table as the others had done.
"NO, NO"!!!! shouts the Policia, and points to the ground shouting something in Spanish, which apparently meant, "leave it there".
She does and the Officer calls in the dogs (literally!).....
Her bags passed - someone else's didn't - (we have no clue how that ended)
Then it's on to the table, dump it out and employ the fine tooth comb.
Stuff it all back in and instruct her to "Go, go"
"Go"???    Go where???   How do I get back to the gate after being led down here by someone who actually knows where he's going.
The Polica points to a door at the top of the first level of open metal stairs.
Back at the level of the departure gate with moments to spare....except....
How ever I got there left one small problem.....I'm back outside the "secure" section of the airport and must go back through security AGAIN!!!
Finally....she appears at the gate and we board the plane as the door slams behind us and pushes back before we're seated.
Close enough??

By that standard, whatever happens on the remaining two legs can't possibly compare and, for the most part didn't.
Our seats, in the very last row didn't recline because they were up against the rear bulkhead and it was, of course, the longest possible walk for Mom but hey....we're on our way.
A little under two hours later we arrive in Panama for a couple hour layover and time to get seats changed to something a little less uncomfortable. No Problemo....two in row 21 and one in 17.
Sitting at the gate with another plane getting ready to board prior to ours arriving and suddenly a small army of private security people springs into action setting up folding tables, cordoning off two "rows", and directing passengers to proceed through an "at the gate", second, TSA type search. They go through each piece of carry on luggage, shoes, jackets, etc, and they fold up their tables, take down the rope corridors and disappear as quickly as they appeared. Just a "random" spot check, or maybe some specific threat? Will they do it again when we board? Do they do every gate? (No) Just not our day?
Apparently not since, sure enough, time for us to board and they return to set up their circus act and search, search, search.

This is really getting old.
We board and switch boarding passes to put Mom in 17.
Shortly after takeoff another "mini crisis" as the flight attendant announces my name and realizes we've switched passes. Row 17 is an emergency exit row, Mom is 87 years old, and......well you can guess the rest.
Three hours later we arrive in Orlando.....back in the USA!!!
Back in the USA means clearing customs which must be done at the first point of entry, which means we have to claim our bags, carry them through customs, then return them to baggage for the trip home. Amazingly, the process went ok.
But, after completing the process we find ourselves on the "wrong" side of the TSA search again (due to some construction going on) and, with no boarding passes since they couldn't be issued by Copa in Quito.
As the old saying goes....when life gives you lemons......
Trot off to the Continental ticket counter and the agent committed the cardinal sin of asking me "How's your day going?"
After the poor guy got an ear full he spent about 15 minutes pounding the keys of his computer and at the end of the process produced three boarding passes and the admonition that "you'll like these seats much better than the ones that were in there - have a nice day!"

Rows 2 and 3 - FIRST CLASS!!! - 

Now THIS is the ONLY way to travel!

45 minute gate hold - probably related to the nonsense going on regarding funding of the FAA (which we were totally unaware of at the time) but at this point, who cares?
Yes, I'll have another vodka tonic (with lime, and gratis), oh, and another red wine please. Tell the pilot to take his time....we're in no real rush.
About the same time we departed Orlando, our friend Anthony leaves Selkirk driving to pick us up at Newark.
We arrive, get our luggage (and it's ALL there!!), walk out the door and he's there. Twenty three hours after we awoke in Quito, we arrive home safely. Thanks Anthony!!!

The moral of the story revolves around the one BIG mistake we made in planning and preparing for our "exploratory" first trip to Ecuador. We had done over a year of research and most of the decisions we made (even those that flew in the face of the "conventional wisdom") we would probably make the same way again. The BIG mistake was not spending the time to acquire at least a "beginner" level of the Spanish language. Here again, we had all good intentions but let "life" get in the way and didn't devote the time necessary.
We were somewhat surprised at the small number of Ecuadorians that speak or understand English. Outside the large cities it's not uncommon to find only one or two "locals" in an entire village with even a rudimentary level of English. We, of course, have no "right" to expect them speak English and an obligation to learn their language. We should have done so prior to going. We can't advise others strongly enough to do so.
Being able to converse, even if only at a  basic level, will enhance the experience more than one can imagine just in the normal day to day encounters of your trip.
Not having at least that basic level of comprehension, and finding yourself in a situation like Mrs. V did, will convince you in a heartbeat.

OK, I "git" it....

....really I do!
I'm wordy (understatement of the year),
tend to ramble on,
have banished the word "concise" from my vocabulary...
So these posts have a tendency to grow and grow.
I know too that I'm still feeling my way along when it comes to how this editor thing works but, in the immortal words of another of our "new best friends", Carlos, "I came to Ecuador with ten thousand dollars worth of PATIENCE - been here two weeks and I'm down to a couple bucks worth left!!!!
In his case, the comment was made in reference to a recent bout with the bureaucracy regarding a resident visa.
In mine it's in regard to the 6 or 7 hours spent on the previous post attempting to get it right.
I've been around computers for a fair amount of time and consider myself somewhat above "average" when it comes to convincing them to do what I want them to do. I recognize that some apps are better than others and that all have their little "quirks". But after all these years most developers have settled in to accept some commonly accepted "standards" and ways of doing things.
This blog editor though seems to want to make its own rules and to make them up as it goes along.
I can't tell you how many times I've added and removed pictures, attempted to cut and paste captions to put them back where they belong because they were moved when a new pic was added in the wrong place.
Why must one scroll all the way back to the top to access the toolbar?
Why does the "Link" button seem to push itself whenever it feels like it? (necessitating another trip back to the toolbar to deselect)
Why can't one edit fonts with a simple "highlight > right click > edit"?
Anyway, I finally gave up and published (when it FINALLY decided to save what was there without "error saving") despite not completing the day. We'll pick it up here and (hopefully) finish out the Quito phase and move on to the coast.
I realize that, as NorteAmericanos, we're a spoiled lot and patience isn't particularly one of our strong suits. I came to Ecuador fully recognizing the cultural differences that exist and totally aware that a healthy dose of adaptation was in order.
Night before last and then again last evening we met and spent time with three more of our "new best friends" (more on both of those experiences later). One of the topics of conversation centered around television. As the leaders of the pack when it comes to being certifiable "news junkies", at home we typically have at least two tubes burning 24/7 and each of us expends considerable energy yelling at the idiot talking heads and political commentators. It's been two weeks with zero TV, zero US "news", zero political banter, and, perhaps surprisingly, not one of us misses it even one iota. Life without a constant barrage of "sound bites" from brain dead politicians and pundants (of both the RePubiKan and DemoCats) is actually quite sweet.
Certain other of our "spoils", however, are more difficult to give up or adapt to the Ecuadorian "way".
High speed internet takes on a whole new meaning (here, at least) when the standard is a usb/gsm modem that, on a good day, races along at 25 or 30kbs and just plain stops for a rest whenever it feels the need. As a reference for the technologically challenged, 28.8 was the standard dial up telephone connection speed back before Dean was born and Al Gore had yet to invent the "internets".
I'll deal with the power going out every couple of days, deal with shutting off the water every once in a while because it hasn't rained enough, even deal with a bureaucratic system that seems to want to emulate the pathetic model created in the US, but, when it comes to my broadband, anything under a Meg is simply beyond my ability to cope!......Oh, well.....

Let's wrap up the Cotacochi/Quito saga and "move on" as they say.
When last we spoke the city was engaged in a celebration of something or other (day after the day after "Independence" from one or another oppressor). Ecuadorians LOVE parades, celebrations, generally just having a good time, and are extremely creative when it comes to providing a "reason" to do so.
As the day was heading toward dusk and our gastronomical clocks have yet to totally embrace the whole almuerzo + midnight diner thing, it was time to take Patricio up on his suggested eatery.

 Not knowing the location of the eatery we paid little attention to the comings and goings of the locals

 

When Patricio announced "este es" (this is it) we had to question if the diminutive but delightful lady was the maitre d'

La Marquese Restaurante - save this one to your Favorites, you'll not be disappointed

Meanwhile, back at the "Festival" the Policia have things totally under "control"

And the intersection "Circle Dancers" have local traffic pretty well stymied as horns blare

"Picture" menus (with posted prices) are an absolute Godsend!

But no pictures can do justice to that which emerges from the kitchen

Patricio is one proud camper and suggests and 80 cent libation

Dean and Grandma ready to chow down

Good thing we had a reservation (nobody, but nobody - except NorteAmericanos - eats "dinner" at this hour)

As the old saying goes.......We Shall Return!!!

Another long, and unforgettable day in the books but now it's time to head back to HotelAndino and prepare for out trip to the Coast in the am. Patricio performs his usual magic wending his way through the onslaught of the "crazies" and we arrive back in Quito around 9:30

The Hurried-er I Go........

.....the behinder I Get!!!

In real world time it's Monday, 11 July and we've been on the Coast for 8 days.
In the blogosphere we're still working on getting you caught up on our final days in Quito.
"Manana" fever is highly contagious......that's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
The good news is, while we've been quite busy since our arrival here at the beach, we've also managed to slow the pace somewhat (Mrs. V has transgressed from Type A+ personality to an A-....you'll not recognize her the first few days back<g>).
"Good News" because it will make catching up much easier....one can only write "we walked the beach" so many times before it becomes burdensome to read. While the reading is boring, the walking is a luxury we never seem to have time for in the hustle and bustle of our "normal" lives and as such a sheer delight.
So back to our last day in Quito.
Once again, our two "new best friends" (Miguel and Patricio) outdid themselves. As a sidenote, if we haven't stated it specifically before let me do so here and now. From our experience, if you are Quito bound and looking for a place to stay and a driver to handle your transportation needs you will find none better than Miguel and Patricio. Miguel and his wife Paola own and operate the AndinoHotel with the assistance of a most competent staff. The term "hotel" gets somewhat lost in the translation for NorteAmericanos - think more along the lines of a cross between a B&B and a country Inn, in the city. Within minutes of your arrival you are treated like family and while the accommodations would challenge the hoity toity the rooms are meticulously clean, comfortable, and contain the necessities (including WiFi and HOT showers - not necessarily a "given" when selecting a place to stay in EC). You can click the link above to contact them via their website for additional information and Miguel will get back to you via email in relatively short order. The rates are most reasonable, the food (breakfasts) incredible (and included in the per diem as is the WiFi), and you would be hard pressed to find a hotelier anywhere more concerned with meeting your every need and desire than Miguel. At the end of your stay, departure will be akin to leaving home.
Patricio is, as best we can determine, what we would classify as an "independent" contractor as opposed to an employee. It is evident though that Miguel respects and trusts Patricio to provide the same level of service to his guests as he would and his confidence is well placed. While we can't say for certain, it appears to us that this may be a relatively new venture for Patricio and one which he is bound and determined to see succeed. His vehicle is new and well maintained, insurance and business requirements appear in order, and he actually has a business card with contact info (not a "given" for many in the business). His rates are more than reasonable and his desire to please second to none. He's working on his English and getting better day by day. Mrs. V, in true "teacher mode" helped expand his vocabulary with the addition of the phrase "okey dokey" - guess I'm missing something when it comes to current ESL curriculum protocols but hey, she's the Professional<g>. The easiest way to arrange for his services is to ask Miguel to handle it for you. We did and all went as smooth as glass from our initial pickup at the airport upon arrival to the various "day trips" arranged on the spot and tailored to our specific desires, to a return to the airport and negotiations with the rental car agency (for which he handled the details in Spanish and protected the SSL challenged "gringos". We have his direct contact info as well which we can provide if you contact us via private email as I'm reticent to post it publicly without his specific authorization.

Back to the task at hand - our last day in Quito and the "Highlands".
Upon our return from yesterday's adventure we arranged with Patricio to employ his services for the full day with destinations "to be determined". Once again, on the spur of the moment he and Miguel laid out an itinerary that included each of the venues we "though" we wanted to see, and a few stops in between that they thought we should. He showed up on time (another issue which is far from a "given"), we were "almost" ready, and off we went headed north.
Otavalo and Cotacachi were on our "must see" list - Otalvo for the famous Indigenous Outdoor Market and Cotacachi which is noted for leather goods and as an area with a near perfect year around climate which induces many expats to lay down roots there. The Otavalo Market is best visited on Saturdays for the full effect as it nearly doubles in size that day and includes the livestock sales from 6-9am. Unfortunately, our plans wouldn't allow a Saturday visit but our hosts assured us the trip was well worth the visit anyway and they were right.
Departing the hotel and heading north was the now familiar exercise in vehicular voluntary euthanasia. As the city lies in a valley between mountains running north and south travel in either of these directions can be a rather long, drawn out affair. Eventually though, we pass the airport and things begin to become more "countrified", population density wise, but certainly not driver courtesy wise.
One of the most interesting characteristics of Ecuador in general is the amount of eco-diversity and how quickly local ecosystems change (in terms of travel time). Literally within a few miles things go from lush green, to almost desert like. In addition, while the "seasons" are essentially reversed (from our perspective) it's "winter" here. Finally, the terms "winter" and "summer" have much different connotations then those in the US - think "wet" and "dry" as opposed to "hot" and "frigid". A couple of pictures of the first leg of the days' journey will illustrate.

An hour or so out of Quito

 Closing in on Otavalo

Shortly before arriving in Otavalo, Patricio stops at what appears to be the Ecuadorian version of a very typical US "tourist trap". Turns out, the views were to die for, none of the souvenirs were made in China, and Mrs. V made, yet ANOTHER new best friend.

 "How would you like to come home with me?"

Back into the Hyundai for the final leg to the village

 Laguna de San Pablo

...and FINALLY - a Shopper's Nirvana!!!

Hand Made/Woven articles of every description and color,

 hats, hats, and more hats,

and Silver Jewelry (some of which will be coming home)

3000 miles for Pizza?
(Turns out, it was well worth the trip)

While some of us could have spent days scouring the market for the ultimate "deal" and to be sure not to miss anything, time constraints (still can't get past that "schedule" thing) dictated otherwise and off we go again. This time headed to Cotacachi.

Another Laguna - this time de Cuicocha

A little better shot of the snowcap under the clouds

In Ecuador, if there's an attraction - there's a market and the Parque is no exception

Just up the road the Vistors Center features a modern structure set in an idyllic location

Vistas are, in Patricio's words - "tranquilo"

Patricio explains the legend of Maria Isabel Nieves Cotacachi ("Mama Cotacachi") to Mrs. V. It dates back centuries in Kichwa lore. Her transgressions led to solitude and tears that produced the Laguna. You can read a brief description of the legend here.

Never one to be upstaged by mere "legend", Mrs. V decides to create one of her own to leave behind on the sacred ground. An apparition? You decide.

 

These young ladies (apparently sisters) secured the "market rights" to the center. As the day comes to a close they are packing up to call it a day. One sister appears less than eager to assist until another admonishes her with a threat to "tell Mama" at which point she dives back in to her work. 

Always one to help out kids in any way she can, and feeling "tall" by comparison, Mrs. V lends a hand to hoist the "goods" up and over the wall to the storage area.

Then, finally, it's off to Cotacachi and "Leather Street"

 Leather belts, purses, and wallets - Oh My!!!
Never one to pass up a deal Mrs. V scores a deal.

 On to view the Cathedral (every town, regardless of size, has at least one)
Today, this one is attracting a particularly large crowd

Might be more than just an everyday Mass?

Where there's a crowd (and even where there's not) the street vendors are aplenty


Onlookers line the sidewalks and an informal "procession" through the streets spontaneously takes shape

Garb ranges from traditional to designer jeans

 Everyone Loves a Parade

The revelers proceed through the city streets stopped at each intersection for a "circle dance"

with predictable results regarding traffic flow - and, of course, the ceremonial "exercising of the horns"